/ “A lot of designers use embroidery in a traditional way. I wanted to do something new, so I made up my own embellishment techniques”
Know that smug feeling you get when you’re wearing an amazing designer your friends have never heard of? AV Robertson, aka Amie Victoria Robertson, everyone. Although we should caveat “heard of” with “yet”, as she’s already won over the difficult-to-win-over fashion cognoscenti with her fantastical 3D embellishments: at her London Fashion Week debut in 2016, she had Marc Jacobs front row, and models Georgia May Jagger and Edie Campbell on stage. All the more impressive, considering the Manchester native only launched in 2015, after graduating from Central Saint Martins and following a stint at Marc Jacobs.
Robertson calls her designs “casual couture” – the “casual” part being the sporty sweaters she works with, the “couture” part being her embellishment adorning those pieces. “It’s like origami how they’re folded and hand stitched,” she says of the lengthy process – an embroidered sweater, such as the black and purple one in Label/Mix, can take up to 50 hours to hand finish. Remarkably, the technique is all hers: “I have never been taught traditional embroidery. I wanted to do something that no one had ever done before.”
Fantasy influences Robertson’s otherworldly 3D motifs. She is “obsessed” with Alice in Wonderland, “loves” surrealist fashion photographer Tim Walker and “adores” Devon Aoki and Lily Cole, models lauded for their ethereal beauty. Naturally, this idiosyncratic designer also has a unique source of inspiration: “I had a dream about aliens falling through space, with fur tails on them, and when they hit the earth’s atmosphere, flowers starting blossoming out of them. That dream inspired my first collection.” If the results are as beautiful as those pieces, keep dreaming.